Low-key look at three chefs who specialize in hummus.
Finished in 2015 but still making festival rounds, Hummus! The Movie is told with humor and compassion. Too niche to win widespread appeal, the documentary is still a good bet for foodies.
The title is something of a misnomer. This is really a collection of character sketches, in particular of three chefs who have won followings in Israel for their hummus recipes. They include Jalil Dabit, an Israeli-born Christian of Arab descent; Eliyahu Shmueli, who evolved from wandering hippie to devoutly religious owner of a chain of hummus restaurants; and Suheila Al Hindi, a Muslim who was the first woman to win a famous, televised cooking contest.
“The secret to my hummus is keeping everything clean,” Suheila says. Her self-effacing demeanor and constant smile can’t hide a strong-willed determination to persevere despite gender issues and a demanding family.
Jalil is the manager of a family restaurant founded in 1948. Working for his father Samir leads to some conflict, with Jalil following his fiancĂ©e to Berlin at one point. He also tries to stage a series of rock concerts, to his father’s bemusement.
An erstwhile dreadlocked druggie, Eliyahu is also distinguished by his smile, and by his bubbling personality. He’s fond of long, digressive stories about his many jobs, his romance, and his conversion to the Breslover sect. Eliyahu was inspired by Yehoshua Sofer, a mystic, rap singer, and martial artist whose song “Hummus Makes You Stupid” was a hit in dance clubs.
Director Oren Rosenfeld, also a cowriter, takes a leisurely approach to the documentary, stopping to talk to farmers, monks, customers, rivals, and even an adjudicator at the Guinness Book of World Records. According to news reports, they originally refused to certify a “world’s largest bowl of hummus” contest in Israel due to security concerns. Rosenfeld apparently shamed them into presiding over a contest won by a 4000 kilogram serving. (The record is now over 10,500 kg.)
Rosenfeld spent considerable time filming Hummus!, traveling with Eliyahu to Breslover headquarters in Uman, Ukraine, and catching up with Jalil after he opens a Middle Eastern restaurant in Berlin. He also follows Suheila to Jerusalem for her first visit in thirty years. The director also includes quick vox populi interviews in New York and other international locations.
Hummus! is not a good choice if you’re looking for recipes, the history of cuisines, the social and cultural contexts for fast food, or the science of chickpea agriculture. But what the documentary does very well is spotlight deserving, hard-working chefs who don’t ordinarily get much attention. Suheila Al Hindi in particular is someone viewers will want to know.
